Ready For Red Chopsticks?
Red Chopsticks
8221 Beechmont Ave | 513-474-1777
Cincy Vibe has been getting heat for not sharing the scoop on Anderson’s newest Asian affair, Red Chopsticks. Naturally, readers expect CV to shine the light on the new joints so Asian was on the menu for me (even though I already order regularly from Tong’s Thai, as well as cook it at home several times a week (everyday this week to be specific!). A meal at Red Chopsticks this week was mandatory, for the reader’s sake.
While I was admittedly not particularly hungry for Asian, I was hungry. Red Chopsticks would have to be better than average to impress me on this trip. Scanning the menu I was picking up on the vibe that this was fairly normal fare. The server even suggested (based on previous patron compliments) the obligatory General Tso’s Chicken, Sweet & Sour Chicken, Sesame Chicken and other Americanized standards. I wasn’t sharing the same enthusiasm for those dishes as my predecessors. I wanted something that stood out, something screaming authentic Asian, something like.... Chinese noodles. Red Chopsticks had a short list of offerings; Ho Fun, Chow Mei Fun, House Special Da Peng Chow Mei Fun and House Special Pan Fried Noodle ($9.95-12.95). Even though I knew I wasn’t going to be taken by surprise with any Mei Fun dishes I took a chance and told the server “I’ll take the Chef’s choice of any noodle dish, with shrimp or tofu or both”. I was hoping Chef would not choose Mei Fun (even though I really dig it, it’s just a bit worn out for me), indeed he did not. After what seemed like a semi-lengthy wait, I was brought a plate of steaming hot Ho Fun. It was love at first site.
Honestly I wasn’t sure what Ho Fun even was. After seeing it in person I realized it was what my favorite Asian place (Tong’s Thai) calls Pad See Ewe (a downright stellar-rific dish I often crave). Thick dumpling like noodles, cut over an inch wide, colored in a dark, smoky-spicy sauce, stir fried with crisp veggies. Mine had a handful of nice plump shrimp as well. I admit, I was excited. I rarely see such a dish and now was surprisingly given one as “Chef’s Choice”. He was right on the mark my friend.
The dish’s flavors were different than my coveted Pad See Ewe, but just as tasty in it’s own right. Perfectly cooked shrimp (and I judge uncompromisingly hard on that), still bright green vibrant Chinese asparagus, green pepper and flash caramelized onion. The whole thing sung with sweet flavors in harmony. Right on Chef.
My dining partner also sought after a dish out of the norm. Her choice was Ma Po Tofu ($8.95). Neither of us were familiar with this dish, nor was our server. Granted, he was new (as expected) and American. Nonetheless, down to earth friendly and quite capable. We took the chance and ordered it blindly. Arriving at the table in a big bowl, the Ma Po, it turns out, is chunks of simply soft tofu swimming in deep red garlic-ginger sauce, accompanied by rice. The aroma peaked both our interest and the flavors were pronounced and bold. A perfect dish for a flu stricken person I suspect. However, assuming the dish was all veggie was one assumption too far. The first forkful showed signs of finely cut flash fried meat. Damn, she was hungry too. After our server confirmed the meat was pork the owner came out and promptly replaced it with a pork-less version. No fuss, no attitude, just lightning fast service with many apologies. If you’re a vegetarian you may want to ask about dishes you know nothing about. Digging into the Ma Po proved it was a good choice. Large chunks of silken tofu nearly melted in your mouth, garlic and ginger sharply stinging the sauce. It didn’t even need the rice, but it was appreciated.
Nor did we need the spring rolls ($3.25), but we ordered them anyway, in a test of quality. The semi translucent wrappers and nearly crisp cabbage & carrot inside proved these were homemade spring rolls after all. A great sign of a serious Chinese kitchen. So many serve the frozen variety these days, a fresh-made treat is getting hard to come by. I consider it mandatory.
All in all, Red Chopsticks did impress. Even though we came in with doubts, we left $23 lighter, quite happy and a little bit wiser. Stop assuming the worst. Sure many Chinese kitchens opt to buy bulk frozen food and simply pass it off to unknowing Americans, but a few are still home cooking, even the simple spring roll.
There is more to Red Chopstick’s menu to investigate such as Boneless Crispy Duck, Filet Fish in Bamboo Net and Mongolian Tender Lamb just to name a few. I say Anderson should skip the savagely arrogant Sizzling Wok, drive right by the aging (and much over-rated) Win Wok and give Red Chopsticks at least one opportunity to impress. If you’re on a tight fast food budget, try their lunch. $7-8 buys you a meal with rice (white, brown or fried, no extra charge), soup and drink, a Chinese combo meal. If it’s as good as our dinner, you should delight in your choice to choose Red Chopsticks.
