Latitudes Reborn

Latitude’s Cafe
7426 Beechmont Ave
Cincinnati, OH 45255 (513) 827-9146

Beechmont’s Latitudes isn’t old, yet still has gone through many changes. Opened in 2005 by rookie restaurateur Chris Hamm. It was an enthusiastic endeavour to bring some sophistication to an otherwise blue collar dining scene. It was much needed if not appreciated.
Chris passed the torch to the good ship in 2009. The new owners (The Khoury Bros.) were a couple of 20-ish bartenders who found a great fit there after earning their 10 year degree in the crap-ass corporate corner of food service. With, talent, drive and strong desire they went from mate to captain and steered her into the new again.
Since then, the chefs changed, the menu changed and the Khoury boys probably wished they still worked staff hours. On top of that, recently, even the whole location moved. The new Latitudes is now around the corner (in the Anderson Towne Center) in the spot that was formerly Cafe Mediterranean.
After many changes does anything remain of the original concept? Definitely, the aspiration to enlighten the bushwa Anderson scene with serious chef driven cuisine that rivals any downtown kitchen. That still remains strong.
However, the Khoury family is Middle Eastern. That means they have a tradition of cooking beyond the average Andersonite’s comprehension. 3000 years of culture does wonders for culinary artistry. But, these guys were raised Anderson, therefore (by default) they crave the same food the locals do (because they are locals). Burgers, fries, tacos, pizza, steak, pasta and tasty beverages from the bar to go with them. Latitudes blends them both.
The new Latitudes menu features a Mediterranean chef edge. They now offer shawarmas alongside burgers. Shawarmas change daily, Two burgers are staples, a beer braised beef burger and a veggie burger. While I do love anything beer soaked saturated, beer braised or beer broiled I had to go with the veggie option on this one. How good could it be?

Perfectly pleasing. Black bean, corn, potato and onion gave it girth. Spices such as the curry and peppers gave it life. Precision grill work gave it a perfect crust (the slight dusting of Penko no doubt aided) and the bareness with which it served gave it confidence. “I would recommend only a slight smear of mustard... I serve it bare to encourage you to taste the essence rather than the condiments... But if you want mayo or whatever that’s fine” said Chef Mark Khoury.
Half I ate bare, half with the mustard, both were impressive. The fresh Jean Paul’s Paradiso bun had a deep rich color and the perfect chew. The just snipped alfalfa on top added an obvious health nut perfume as it met your mouth. It simply smells healthy. But, it’s satisfyingly good too. The splash of mustard brightened it up but mayo would be too much, maybe wasabi mayo would fit. But then they’d have to make that too (like they do all their other sauces). I wonder, if their veggie burger is this good, what’s up with this beer burger? Some other time.
Latitudes tacos might not be considered finer dining but sh!t, they are damn sure quality. One corn, one flour tortilla stacked, loaded up with shrimp, garlic, cilantro and onions, kissed with chipotle-lime sauce and topped with fried tortilla strips. It’s pretty and filling, as it comes with a carrot-raisin-walnut salad wrapped in a red cabbage leaf. Finger licking good. And good for you too.
We all know about The Crave for Whitey’s sliders. While we usually regret it, we do (or have) order the little soggy burgers that spurred much imitation. Chef Mark also offers his version on the new menu and they share little with Whitey’s except the size. Garlic marinated mushrooms, caramelized onion, red pepper, walnuts and secret seasoning make up the meat. Feta and mozzarella get melted on top and a bright sauce finishes it off. You get 4 for $8. You’ll dig them all. They are meaty but meatless, healthy but taste sinful. You get the best of both worlds.
Feeling like some filet mignon? Chef Mark will serves you up a fresh hand cut filet, cooked as ordered, with twice baked mashed potatoes and a seasonal vegetable medley, a flash prepared bearnaise sauce makes the beef sing. They’ve actually had complaints that “It’s too juicy.” Whatever.
It’s just $18 for a 6 ounce and 22 for a 10 ounce filet. For five bucks they pile on a heap of buttered Alaskan King crab. Try getting that out of the Precinct!
After 10, Latitudes morphs into a laid back bar with jam bands and a packed smoking patio. The liquor flows freely (both owners are ex-bartenders). It’s good liquor too. Whether you’re a suburban P&G Anderson professional or a parents-basement-hippie you’ll strike a cord here with someone. And if after you’ve worked up an appetite on the dance floor you find yourself hungry for more, Latitudes has a new late night menu. It’s short but sweet and just what you need after your sixth goose and cranberry. Beef sliders, Buffalo chicken sandwiches, boneless wings (not the frozen crap, real chicken breaded and fried crisp-tossed in house hot sauce), potato skins (gourmet style of course) and a duo of fresh soft pretzels. All around 5 bucks ($4-$7). They serve you until 1 am. Or buy it at 1 and eat it at 2. Even re-heated I bet it will still be better than anything else that’s still open. And damn sure better than Whitey’s.
Much has changed on the good ship Latitudes but she still flies the same colors. Interesting chef driven food, a quality-healthy approach, far off flavors for intrigue, three finger drinks and groove music. She’s moored in a new slip, she’s steered by new captains, but her helm stays straight, pointed firmly towards the horizon of the future. May the wind be at her back and her crew be steadfast. It looks like smooth sailing if you ask me.